1st Global Conference
Friday 25th September – Sunday 27th September 2009
Mansfield College, Oxford
in association with Models 1: Europe’s Leading Model Agency
The programme for the conference is available below. Delegates are listed according to the session in which they appear. Clicking on the Session Title will take you to the abstracts (where available) for that session. Each delegate is listed according to their affiliation.
Final Conference Programme
Friday 25th September 2009
from 12.30
Registration
13.30
Welcome and Opening Words
Rob Fisher and Jacque Lynn Foltyn
14.00
Session 1: Fashion Theory for the 21st Century
Chair: Jacque Lynn Foltyn
Flavia Loscialpo
Fashion and Philosophical Deconstruction: A Fashion in-Deconstruction
Kim Cunningham
Caught/Appearing: Towards a Haptic Visual Methodology in Fashion Studies
Veronique Pouillard
Paris-New York: The Irreconcilable Translation? A Study on the Comparative Significance of “Mode” and “Fashion”
15.30
Tea
16.00
Session 2: The Politics of Fashion: Fashioning Race, Ethnic, National, and Historical Identities
Chair: Sofia Pantouvaki
Alisa K. Braithwaite
First Lady of Fashion: How the U.S. has Embraced Michelle Obama
Giovanni Vassallo
Use of Skin Whitening Products among African People. A Research in Italy and the Congo
Erica De Greef
The Hybrid Tiger of South African Fashioned Histories
Ekaterina Kalinina
Retro Fashion: A Way to Deal with History and Construct Identities? Case Study of Denis Simachev, the Soviet Retro Fashion Brand
18.00
Notices and Announcements
Wine Recption
18.45
Dinner
Saturday 26th September 2009
09.00
Session 3: Fashion, Fantasy, and Representation: Fashion as a Stylized Form of Artistic Expression
Chair: Alisa Braithwaite
Nicole Shivers
Fashion as Performance: Influencing Future Trends and Building New Audience
Sarah Hand
From Cameron to Convergence: A Visual Photographic Narrative with Fantasy and Role-play
Jacque Lynn Foltyn
Corpse Chic: ‘Dead’ Models and ‘Living’ Corpses in Fashion Photography
10.30
Coffee
11.00
Session 4a: History of Fashion: Gendered Style in 19th and 20th Century Anglo-American Popular Culture
Chair: Kim Cunningham
Kristen Stewart
Little Lord Fauntleroy: The Defense of a Fashion Victim
Rebecca Perry
“Girlies and Grannies”: Kate Greenaway and Children’s Dress in Late Nineteenth-Century Britain
Michael Langkjaer
Not Entirely Subversive: Motivations Behind ‘Rock Military Style’ from c. 1960 to the New Millennium
Session 4b (panel) Fashioning Transnational Identities: China, Japan, Europe
Chair: Johannes Reponen
Wessie Ling
Chinese Clothes for Chinese Women: Fashioning the Qipao in 1930s China
Sarah Cheang
A Chinese Dressing Jacket: China and Japan in British Modernity
Elizabeth Kramer
Plug Hats and Kimono: Transnational Dress in Meiji Japan
12.30
Lunch
14.00
Session 5a: History of Fashion: Origins and Archives
Chair: Michael Langkjaer
Tineke Rooijakkers
Changing Dress: An Archaeological Perspective
Luca LoSicco
Italian Haute Couture: First Attempts of Emancipation from France (1906-1959)
Claire Evans
Developing the Perfect Fashion Archive
Session 5b: Global Fashion Culture: Designers as Thematic and Conceptual Artists, Historians, and Philosophers
Chair: Sarah Hand
Sofia Pantouvaki
Culture and Fashion: The Case of Greek Designer Yannis Tseklenis
Alexis Romano
What’s in a Narrative? Interpreting Yohji Yamamoto in the Museum
Sölen Kipöz and Deniz Guner
Conceptual Resistance of Hussein Chalayan within the Ephemeral World of Fashion
15.30
Tea
16.00
Session 6a: Fashioning 20th and 21st Century Sexual and Gender Identities
Chair: Claire Allen
Ericka Basile
Second Skins: Spandex Pants and the New American Woman
Kristof Avramsson
The Twink in the Tight Shirt: Queer(ing) Semiotics of “Fit” in Men’s Ready-to-Wear
Jess Berry
Show Ponies and Centaurs: The Male Dandy Revisited
Session 6b: (panel) Fashioning National Identity: Dutch Fashion Identity in a Globalized World
Chair: Nicole Shivers
Maaike Feitsma
Don’t Dress to Impress; the Dutch Fashion Mentality
Anja Koppchen
Creating Dutch Fashion Identities through Globalised Production Routines
Constantin-Felix von Maltzahn
The Construction of Identities through Designers and Consumers
18.00
Sessions End
Sunday 27th September 2009
09.00
Session 7a: Fashion Subcultures: Of Gothic Lolitas and Dance Halls
Chair: Kristof Avramsson
Michelle Carriger
Street Corner Angels and Internet Demons: Spectacular Visibility and the Transnational Gothic
Noriko Onohara
Romantic European Nostalgia and Japanese ‘Gosurori’ Fashion
Shelley-Ann McFarlane
Towards an Exploration of Earl ‘Biggy’ Spence and the new Reggae/Dancehall Fashion Aesthetic
Session 7b: Performing Fashion: Private, Public, and Virtual Spaces
Chair: Jess Berry
Lucy Collins
Fashion as Confession: Revelation and Concealment in Personal Identity
Anneke Smelik
The Performance of Authenticity
Chana (Connie) Etengoff
The Fashion of Virtual Space & Place
10.30
Coffee
11.00
Session 8a: Eco-Fashion
Chair: Helena Beks
Karen Heard
Future of Fashion: Something out of Nothing
Desiree Smal
The Future of Eco-Fashion, a Design-Driven Approach
Alissa de Wit-Paul
Sustainable Fashion in the Building of Design Professions
Session 8b: Beyond Dress: Expanding Definitions of Consumption, Luxury, and Fashion
Chair: Alexis Romano
Cecilia Winterhalter
Gastronomic Fashions, Luxury Concepts, Consumption Practices and the Construction of Identity
Nathaniel Dafydd Beard
Defining the Fashion City: Fashion Capital or Style Centre?
12.30
Lunch
14.00
Session 9: Fashion Magazines, Blogs, and Evolving Patterns of Fashion Communication and Criticism
Chair: Wessie Ling
Aurélie Van de Peer
Fashion’s Relation to The New in Early 20th Century Fashion Magazines
Ane Lynge-Jorlén
Niche Fashion Magazine Production: Fashion Capital, Codes and Values
Claire Allen
‘Style Surfing’ Changing Parameters of Fashion Communication – Where Have They Gone?
Johannes Reponen
Fashion Criticism Today?
16.00
Tea
16.30
Thematic Reflections and Development Meeting
17.30
Conference Close
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