1st Global Conference (2009)

1st Global Conference


Friday 25th September – Sunday 27th September 2009
Mansfield College, Oxford

in association with Models 1: Europe’s Leading Model Agency

The programme for the conference is available below. Delegates are listed according to the session in which they appear. Clicking on the Session Title will take you to the abstracts (where available) for that session. Each delegate is listed according to their affiliation.

Final Conference Programme

Friday 25th September 2009
from 12.30

Welcome and Opening Words
Rob Fisher and Jacque Lynn Foltyn

Session 1: Fashion Theory for the 21st Century
Chair: Jacque Lynn Foltyn

Flavia Loscialpo
Fashion and Philosophical Deconstruction: A Fashion in-Deconstruction

Kim Cunningham
Caught/Appearing: Towards a Haptic Visual Methodology in Fashion Studies

Veronique Pouillard
Paris-New York: The Irreconcilable Translation? A Study on the Comparative Significance of “Mode” and “Fashion”


Session 2:  The Politics of Fashion:  Fashioning Race, Ethnic, National, and Historical Identities
Chair: Sofia Pantouvaki

Alisa K. Braithwaite
First Lady of Fashion: How the U.S. has Embraced Michelle Obama

Giovanni Vassallo
Use of Skin Whitening Products among African People. A Research in Italy and the Congo

Erica De Greef
The Hybrid Tiger of South African Fashioned Histories

Ekaterina Kalinina
Retro Fashion: A Way to Deal with History and Construct Identities? Case Study of Denis Simachev, the Soviet Retro Fashion Brand

Notices and Announcements
Wine Recption


Saturday 26th September 2009
Session 3: Fashion, Fantasy, and Representation: Fashion as a Stylized Form of Artistic Expression

Chair: Alisa Braithwaite

Nicole Shivers
Fashion as Performance: Influencing Future Trends and Building New Audience

Sarah Hand
From Cameron to Convergence: A Visual Photographic Narrative with Fantasy and Role-play

Jacque Lynn Foltyn
Corpse Chic:  ‘Dead’ Models and ‘Living’ Corpses in Fashion Photography


Session 4a: History of Fashion: Gendered Style in 19th and 20th Century Anglo-American Popular Culture
Chair: Kim Cunningham

Kristen Stewart
Little Lord Fauntleroy: The Defense of a Fashion Victim

Rebecca Perry
“Girlies and Grannies”: Kate Greenaway and Children’s Dress in Late Nineteenth-Century Britain

Michael Langkjaer
Not Entirely Subversive: Motivations Behind ‘Rock Military Style’ from c. 1960 to the New Millennium

Session 4b (panel)  Fashioning Transnational Identities: China, Japan, Europe
Chair: Johannes Reponen

Wessie Ling
Chinese Clothes for Chinese Women: Fashioning the Qipao in 1930s China

Sarah Cheang
A Chinese Dressing Jacket: China and Japan in British Modernity

Elizabeth Kramer
Plug Hats and Kimono: Transnational Dress in Meiji Japan


Session 5a: History of Fashion: Origins and Archives
Chair: Michael Langkjaer

Tineke Rooijakkers
Changing Dress: An Archaeological Perspective

Luca LoSicco
Italian Haute Couture: First Attempts of Emancipation from France (1906-1959)

Claire Evans
Developing the Perfect Fashion Archive

Session 5b: Global Fashion Culture:  Designers as Thematic and Conceptual Artists, Historians, and Philosophers
Chair: Sarah Hand

Sofia Pantouvaki
Culture and Fashion: The Case of Greek Designer Yannis Tseklenis

Alexis Romano
What’s in a Narrative? Interpreting Yohji Yamamoto in the Museum

Sölen Kipöz and Deniz Guner
Conceptual Resistance of Hussein Chalayan within the Ephemeral World of Fashion


Session 6a: Fashioning 20th and 21st Century Sexual and Gender Identities
Chair: Claire Allen

Ericka Basile
Second Skins: Spandex Pants and the New American Woman

Kristof Avramsson
The Twink in the Tight Shirt: Queer(ing) Semiotics of “Fit” in Men’s Ready-to-Wear

Jess Berry
Show Ponies and Centaurs: The Male Dandy Revisited

Session 6b: (panel) Fashioning National Identity: Dutch Fashion Identity in a Globalized World
Chair: Nicole Shivers

Maaike Feitsma
Don’t Dress to Impress; the Dutch Fashion Mentality

Anja Koppchen
Creating Dutch Fashion Identities through Globalised Production Routines

Constantin-Felix von Maltzahn
The Construction of Identities through Designers and Consumers

Sessions End

Sunday 27th September 2009
Session 7a: Fashion Subcultures: Of Gothic Lolitas and Dance Halls
Chair: Kristof Avramsson

Michelle Carriger
Street Corner Angels and Internet Demons: Spectacular Visibility and the Transnational Gothic

Noriko Onohara
Romantic European Nostalgia and Japanese ‘Gosurori’ Fashion

Shelley-Ann McFarlane
Towards an Exploration of Earl ‘Biggy’ Spence and the new Reggae/Dancehall Fashion Aesthetic

Session 7b: Performing Fashion: Private, Public, and Virtual Spaces
Chair: Jess Berry

Lucy Collins
Fashion as Confession: Revelation and Concealment in Personal Identity

Anneke Smelik
The Performance of Authenticity

Chana (Connie) Etengoff
The Fashion of Virtual Space & Place


Session 8a: Eco-Fashion

Chair: Helena Beks

Karen Heard
Future of Fashion: Something out of Nothing

Desiree Smal
The Future of Eco-Fashion, a Design-Driven Approach

Alissa de Wit-Paul
Sustainable Fashion in the Building of Design Professions

Session 8b: Beyond Dress: Expanding Definitions of Consumption, Luxury, and Fashion
Chair: Alexis Romano

Cecilia Winterhalter
Gastronomic Fashions, Luxury Concepts, Consumption Practices and the Construction of Identity

Nathaniel Dafydd Beard
Defining the Fashion City: Fashion Capital or Style Centre?


Session 9: Fashion Magazines, Blogs, and Evolving Patterns of Fashion Communication and Criticism
Chair:  Wessie Ling

Aurélie Van de Peer
Fashion’s Relation to The New in Early 20th Century Fashion Magazines

Ane Lynge-Jorlén
Niche Fashion Magazine Production: Fashion Capital, Codes and Values

Claire Allen
‘Style Surfing’ Changing Parameters of Fashion Communication – Where Have They Gone?

Johannes Reponen
Fashion Criticism Today?


Thematic Reflections and Development Meeting

Conference Close